It’s that time of year again– splendid Thanksgiving repast over, excess turkey safely ensconced in a light cream- and- sherry tetrazzini sauce, friendly football bets all settled– and on Virginia’s Eastern Shore, time for something different, one of my favorite events of the year, the annual Thanksgiving Artisan Open Studio and Vineyard Tour. Pleasant, low-key, the Tour is the Friday-Saturday-Sunday after Turkey Day opportunity to personally meet talented local artists and select unique and beautiful art for some of the special people on your holiday gift list. One of the great things about this self-guided driving tour, for locals and visitors alike, is that it is spread over a wide- ranging area. Since the event is held in the participating artists’ studios, which are quite often located at their personal residences, visitors often end up traveling down scenic by-ways and into little hamlets that they would not ordinarily be exploring if not for the Tour. Thankfully, the Guild puts out an on-line brochure and map, plus plenty of signs and arrows are placed strategically along roads, their red bows waving in the breeze, helping to guide folks along the way. This year’s Open Studio sites were scattered from Capeville to Onancock. ( One of my favorite Tours took place a few years ago when we visited Open Studios located from south of Cape Charles up to the island of Chincoteague near the Shore’s northern border with Maryland, a distance just shy of 70 miles. We got started early in Cape Charles and visited just about every venue. In fact, after touring the 2 of the 3 open studios on Chincoteague that year, we spent the remaining half hour + of daylight at the beautiful Chincoteague Wildlife Refuge, home of the famous Pony Round-up. The vast flocks of snow geese were so impressive, elegant white birds serenely floating on clear blue waters. )
Because of another commitment, this year we were unfortunately unable to start until after lunch. With two grandkids in tow, aged 8 and 11, we set off for the By The Bay Alpaca Farm in Pungoteague. The approach to the property is down a long farm road, through large fields blanketed with green winter cover crops, when suddenly they appear, some of the cutest farm animals you’ll ever see, a herd of 14 beautiful alpacas. During the drive I had asked the boys what they knew about alpacas– the 8 year old piped up that he thought they were members of the camel family and the 11 year old commented that they are a lot like llamas. But none of us had ever seen an alpaca up close and personal so we were looking forward to reaching out and touching one of these adorable creatures. Definitely not disappointed, they were the highlight of the entire Tour for the 4 of us, absolutely stole the show ! These graceful animals, with cloven hoofs like deer, in various shades of beige, white and brown, placidly chewed their cuds, completely ignoring their many admiring visitors.
Andrew Leach, who with Tara King runs the farm, was kind enough to put a leash on one of the sweetest youngsters and let the 4 of us pet him. I was quite surprised at how long and deep the fleece is, about 3 inches this time of year, although it will be at least 6 inches long by the time they get sheared in the spring. And soft, it was amazingly soft, which is why it is so prized for sweaters, scarves, gloves, etc. , all of which Tara makes right there on the farm in her light-filled studio. By The Bay has won numerous awards for its fleece. The studio is a veritable sea of ribbons and awards, a real accomplishment for the owners, especially considering that they started with only a single pregnant female and have built their herd of 14 from there. Aside from how incredibly soft the fleece is, we were all surprised by how much alpacas vocalize as well as by the fact that, unlike cows, horses, etc., they are essentially “potty trained”. Though I hesitate to get so earthy in a blog post, we were all astonished to see three or four different animals walk up to what apparently is their selected potty area in the middle of the pasture and do their thing, right on the exact same spot where a previous animal had just finished. I asked Andrew if I was just imagining this and he said that alpacas like to keep their pastures clean and that they do basically adhere to a central toilet area instinctively, no attempts at training from him ! Who would have guessed ….
From By The Bay we were off to Onancock, specifically the historic Onancock School which now houses the studios of about 10 artisans. We visited the studio of Elizabeth Hunt, a well-known potter who does beautifully decorative stoneware, David Farlow, the Harbormaster at the Quinby, VA harbor, who is a 4th generation Eastern Shore decoy carver and the Reflections Glass Studio, owned by the Careys, a husband and wife glass blowing team. There were more studios at the school to visit but because of our late start it was almost the witching hour and I still wanted to visit the studio of Vesna Zidovec, a well-known potter, whose mirrors decorated by borders of her hand-made glazed marine life tiles are legendary here on the Shore. Vesna has a very cozy studio in her home in Onancock, toasty warm from a wood stove in the corner, flanked by a chessboard table, soft classical music playing, a great place to end the Tour. We selected a lovely glazed bowl decorated with, of course, a blue heron, and then it was time to head for home, another Tour, albeit abbreviated, under our belts, a delightful time had by all plus a lot more info on alpacas.