




What could be more relaxing than unwinding at sunset on the deck of your Chesapeake Bay beachfront home, surrounded by rolling dunes and serenaded by the soothing sounds of waves lapping against the shoreline and seabirds calling overhead ? On Virginia’s Eastern Shore, a beach home is all about a sense of fun, of embracing a new way of life, of kicking back, breathing in the tangy salt air, listening to the seabirds call, focusing on the spectacular views donated by Mother Nature ! Especially so in this Lindal style cedar beachfront home offering the casual elegance and real livability that turns a mere house into a longed for retreat, one’s very own sand castle. Nestled on about four acres of sparkling sand dunes dotted with sea oats waving in the breezes, gnarled maritime pines and striking yucca plants, this custom 5 bedroom, 4 1/2 bath beachfront beauty is all about immersing in a nature-inspired lifestyle. With over 2200 sq.ft. of balcony and multi-level open decking dedicated to outdoor living, perfect for fresh air entertaining or just basking in the sun, and a huge hot tub beckoning star gazers or moon watchers at night, folks may never want to come inside !
But when they do finally decide come inside, what dramatic beauty awaits. Soaring cathedral ceilings, walls of windows, an open and flowing floorplan. With the home’s east-west orientation, it’s easy to follow the sun all day. From the soft light in the breakfast room at sunrise to mint juleps in the great room at sunset glow, this home is light filled and airy. The large great room focal point is a towering two story floor- to- ceiling fireplace and massive hearth constructed of custom selected stone in eye-pleasing rose and grey hues. The architectural design on the waterside consists of three “prows” , each of which creates a feel of a particular living space yet essentially it is one large light-filled open living space, a “great room” in every sense of the word, with a sitting- conversation area at one end and a dining area at the other. An abundance of windows on each wall of the prows and sliding glass doors leading to the decks bring the outdoors inside, the golden sunshine, the dazzling views of blue Chesapeake Bay waters, the sparkling sand beach and the glorious skies at sunset, sun slipping below the horizon, painting the water in vibrant hues of reds and golds.
A large master suite carries on the theme of high ceilings and beautiful windows and also includes doors to the deck . Guest bedrooms are upstairs, with a central guest sitting area, individual balconies and great waterviews as well. Beautiful library/music room/den off the great room, a cozy space for curling up with a good book, soft music in the background. Downstairs, a full walk-out basement with it’s own patio and outdoor shower, a library area, media room & pool room, extra storage for bikes, kayaks, fishing gear and other essential toys, etc., etc. Truly, this is a beach home that doesn’t just look like a beachfront home, it’s a beach home where you really feel the sense of sand and blue waters everywhere, an inspiration inside as well as outside ! Located in a tiny beach neighborhood offering private pool and tennis club for residents. Only 10 minutes from the historic little waterfront town of Cape Charles, VA offering a wide variety of amenites including shops, restaurants, art galleries, theatre, cultural events, Palmer and Nicklaus signature golf courses and two deep water marinas. Atttractively priced at $1,595,000. For more information and photos on this property, visit www.blueheronva.com and click on beachfront under the “listings” menu on the top navigation bar.
(Posted by Marlene Cree, licensed Virginia agent with Blue Heron Realty Co., 7134 Wilsonia Neck Dr., Machipongo, VA)
It’s so hard to believe that another year is quickly drawing to a close, that in just a few days it will be 2012. And after I’ve finally gotten it down pat, correctly writing 2011 on my checks every single time, now I have to start all over again, trying to remember to write in the correct date ? ? Ah, the trials and tribulations of a numerically challenged person, twas ever thus ! On a more serious note, this is the time of year when most folks pause and try to put aside the trivial and concentrate on what’s really important– family, friends, country. And this year, like last, has been a very difficult one for so many throughout our great country. But hope springs eternal, things are improving and I for one believe that 2012 will be a better year. In the meantime, we would like to especially thank our clients and customers, all the many folks who listed or purchased property though Blue Heron Realty Co. , we truly appreciate your business and value your confidence in our firm. And to you, dear reader of this little blog on life and real estate on the Eastern Shore of Virginia, we hope you had some fun, learned a bit more about our little slice of the planet at the corner of the Chesapeake Bay and the Atlantic Ocean and plan to keep reading in the New Year. So, from Lemoin, Marlene, Montaigne, Mike, Gerry, Heather, Kay, Lisa and Nicole in our Machipongo, VA office and from Dave, Eva, Jennifer, Luisa, Bonnie and Sandy in our Cape Charles, VA office, thanks ever so much ! Have a wonderful holiday season and best wishes for a happy, healthy and prosperous New Year from the entire Blue Heron Realty Co. crew !
(Posted by Marlene Cree, licensed Virginia agent with Blue Heron Realty Co., 7134 Wilsonia Neck Dr., Machipongo, VA)
Westward Ho ! , the theme of our annual trek some weeks ago from our beloved Eastern Shore’s sandy seashore to the foothills of the Blue Ridge mountains in Charlottesville, VA. It’s a trip that, depending on traffic, only takes 3-4 hours, but it’s a trip that shows off the real beauty and diversity of Virginia geography as we drive from our saltwater-dominated Atlantic coastal plain through the Virginia’s rolling plain Piedmont area, ( think Williamsburg, Richmond, etc. ), and then into the gorgeous Blue Ridge area of Charlottesville and Roanoke.
( Westward still would place you in the Appalachian Mountains and Virginia’s famous Shennandoah Valley, very beautiful yet somehow we seldom go that far. ) Virginia certainly isn’t an especially large state but it has a diversity which makes getting a change of pace and scenery easy and fun to do. For some reason, it never ceases to amaze me that I can be driving on the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel, watching rolling waves and seabirds just after breakfast and by lunchtime I can be sitting in a chair atop Carter Mountain, munching a juicy York apple.
This year, because of an especially busy schedule, for the first time, we made our Annual Apple Trek after Halloween rather than before, which like most things in life had its pros and cons. Pros were that it was quiet, no lines to pay for apples and Carter’s fabulous fresh-pressed apple cider, easy to find an attendant to get questions answered and a chair was immediately available to sit and admire the wide vistas. Cons– well, I really missed seeing all the kids running around trying to choose their Halloween pumpkins, the hayride wagons full of excited parents and kids, the bluegrass fiddles and banjos. In short, apparently it wasn’t just about the crunchy apples and the beautiful vistas from atop Carter’s Mountain, it was also very much about the infectious atmosphere of their month long October Apple Festival accompanied by the mouth-watering aromas of fresh apple pies and apple cider donuts wafting through it that we had been enjoying all these years. At any rate, before venturing up to the Orchard we enjoyed a late lunch at Michie Tavern, located right at the foot of the mountain and only a half mile from Jefferson’s Monticello. Built in 1784 as a country inn to accommodate travelers of the day, it is a beautiful structure, a National Historic Landmark, very well-preserved. Serving a menu of foods typical of the time and still popular today– fried or baked chicken and excellent southern style pulled pork BBQ, accompanied by black-eyed peas, stewed tomatoes, beets, cole slaw, mashers, cornbread, big, fluffy biscuits, etc. , Michie Tavern gives an authentic taste of what travelers of the time would have experienced. Lunch can be eaten inside or al fresco on their screened porch overlooking the propery’s magnificant woodlands or by the roaring fireplace in winter, it’s always a very pleasant experience. (www.michietavern.com)
Lunch over, up Carter Mountain we went. The apples were great, as usual. We normally buy a bushel each of four different varieties, typically Stayman Winesap, York, Fugi and Pink Lady, so that we can mix them together and give them as little “happy-apple-harvest” gifties to friends and family. A Pink Lady is an especially pretty apple, a very pale green with a large blush of deep pink on the side, quite crisp and slightly tart, one of my favorite apples, both a good eating and a good pie apple. But for applesauce, I think you just can’t beat the combination of the Stayman and York varieties with a few Fugi and Macintosh thrown in for good measure. At our house we love applesauce, unsweetened, chunky, flavorful, lightly laced with cinnamon, completely delicious with chicken or pork, and, I might add, so good for you. It’s hard to tolerate what passes for applesauce in the supermarket, thin, grainy, absolutely flavorless– must be made with mealy red delicious, the worst apple ever for flavor. But a big pot of three or four types of sweet-tart Carter Mountain apples, slowly simmered with a little apple cider, mashed carefully to retain some chunks (but not too many), gently flavored with cinnamon and perhaps a tiny dash of clove at the very end — now that’s an applesauce that we will drive 3 hours to get really fresh apples to make ! ( By the way, applesauce freezes very well, pull it out, defrost and it tastes almost as great as the day it was simmered off in the big apple kettle.) So we got some great apples, newly picked that morning, we got the fresh-pressed apple cider, delicious either hot and mulled or icy cold, as well as a dozen pre-packaged cider donuts. All in all, we had a great day. But ….. for Apple Trek 2012, I think we will make a point to go before Halloween so we can enjoy all the extras too — the yelling kids, the noisy hayrides, the bluegrass band twanging away and the aromas of apple pies newly baked, all the many features of the October Apple Festival atop Charlottesville’s Carter Mountain.
(Posted by Marlene Cree, licensed Virginia agent with Blue Heron Realty Co., 7134 Wilsonia Neck Dr., Machipongo, VA)
Auspiciously, this magnificent historic home listed for sale by Blue Heron Realty Co. is located in Belle Haven, VA, a little Eastern Shore of Virginia town which straddles the county line between Northampton and Accomack County, a beautiful retreat, which indeed this home is. Of dramatic neoclassical design, its most striking architectural characteristic is the line of tall Doric order style Greek columns which dramatically define the entry portico. ( Interesting bit of trivia, in ancient Greece, the height of a column was described as “diameters” of height, a ratio between the width and height. So what we would describe as an 10″ column 10′ tall would have been said by the Greeks to be 10 diameters high although apparently Doric order columns were often not much more than 8 diameters high whereas the more elaborate Ionic order columns were generally 9 diameters and the ornate Corinthian order columns 10 diameters high. All that being said, in this post I’ll just detail the height in feet, 20 feet tall to be exact, and not diameters.) I mention this detail about the imposing columns because only a very few historic homes on the Eastern Shore were built in this really grand style, making this particular home even more special. Custom built in 1912 for a very prominent local doctor whose offices were in the basement, according to local lore, this was the very first house on the Eastern Shore to have both telephone and electricity– it even had a built-in tube intercom system throughout, one of the newest gadgets of that era. Complimenting the elaborate inside features is its magnificent facade, three course thick brick embellished with large modillions and intricate dentil moldings.
Walking up the marble steps and into the house, one is struck by the spacious size of the foyer and its light and airy feel. This is because not only does the solid mahogney front door have double set of elaborately etched leaded glass sidelights and transom lights, but the current owner has installed seven skylights including a large skylight centered over the elegant cantilevered staircase so natural light streams gently down, bathing each floor with uplifting golden sunlight. Together with the many windows throughout, this home is much enlivened with the warmth and brightness of natural daylight, giving each room a relaxed, very pleasant feel.
Interior details include all original woodwork and original hardwood floors, elaborate crown moldings throughout, wainscoating in many rooms, four sets of massive pocket doors, hinged doors throughout constructed of top quality mahogany and still retain their original crystal doorknobs, seven elaborate fireplaces with hand carved mantels plus a simply gorgeous antique crystal chandelier which highlights the spacious dining room. Close to the back stairs accessing the 2nd and 3rd stories is a large Butler’s Pantry which features the original sink and cupboards. Hoping for a cozy spot to curl up with your favorite author’s newest book ? Try the large library with floor-to-ceiling bookcases and a great fireplace ! It’s a very comfortable feeling room, the kind of room that is heavenly even on a cool, grey, rainy day, a crackling fire burning, a steaming mug of java at the elbow, stretched out on the sofa, toes encased in toasty fleece sox, soft music in the background, yep, heavenly is the word for it …..
Love open air lunches ? Two large porches, one screened, one open, stand for scads of comfy wicker outdoor furniture with colorful, thick Sunbrella cushions, the better to enjoy our balmy summer breezes. Love horses ? The property includes a horse stable and the house is available with 5 acres up to 24 acres, so lots of room possible for pasture. Close to shopping, boat ramps, restaurants and marinas. Two public beaches are located less than 20 minutes away . This is a wonderful, versatile home, lovingly built, featuring fine craftsmanship and only the very best materials. Call Blue Heron Realty Co. at 757-678-5200 for pricing details and more information on available adjacent parcels.
(Posted by Marlene Cree, licensed Virginia agent with Blue Heron Realty Co., 7134 Wilsonia Neck Dr., Machipongo, VA)
The first weekend of August this eleventh year of the third millenium proved to be truly memorable for Cape Charles residents and visitors alike. Jam-packed with activities that began the month-long celebration of our historic Town’s 125th anniversary, there was something for everyone of all ages to enjoy, including open house tours of several of Cape Charles’ beautiful historic homes for sale.
The Harbor of Refuge of Cape Charles is, of course, no stranger to working watercraft of the Chesapeake Bay. Its first 60 years of service as a transportation hub for the railroad and steamship industries attracted many hundreds of Chesapeake Bay workboats such as log canoes, skipjacks, bugeyes and deadrises that worked the plentiful and famous oyster reefs of the Bay. Unfortunately, since the late 1950’s, the oyster populations in the Bay have declined substantially due to over-harvesting of the resource and decimation by an oyster virus. Slowly but surely, these wooden workhorses of the Bay have fallen prey to abandonment and rot until there are very few examples of these splendid watercraft left afloat.
No one wants to glorify the overfishing that in large part caused the decline of this valuable fishery, the oyster, a “keystone” species of the Chesapeake Bay watershed but appreciation of the design and construction of these historic wooden watercraft is part of the preservation of the Eastern Shore’s rich nautical heritage. ( In fact, the not-so-humble oyster was so important to the Shore that over on the Seaside, less than 10 minutes from Cape Charles, sits the quaint little town of Oyster, Virginia. ) Traditionally, these “buy- boats” cruised the waters of the Bay, buying oysters and clams, dredging for oysters and in general hauling lumber, farm produce and other products from the Eastern Shore to market. Historians believe that there are maybe thirty of these “buy-boats” left in the Chesapeake Bay. Another that is still known to be afloat is in Honduras in Central America of all places. A fleet of twelve buy-boats from as far away as the Sassafras River arrived in the Cape Charles harbor as a culmination of their weeklong annual cruise reunion. This is the first time they have visited Cape Charles, as the Town has now completed the installation of new floating docks which will accomodate fleets such as this.
The fleet of buy-boats arrived Thursday afternoon and Cape Charles’ Harbormaster Smitty Dize and his hardworking crew were prepared to tie them up on B dock where they could all be observed together by the hundreds of eager fans awaiting their arrival here. As Blue Heron Realty Co. is an avid supporter of efforts to revitalize the Town of Cape Charles, we had signed up to sponsor the first Cape Charles Harbor Boat Docking Competition scheduled to take place Sunday afternoon and one of the highlights of the buy-boat reunion here. So we were invited to the VIP party Thursday evening at the harbor and allowed very easy access to all the buy-boats and their owners, captains and crew.
I was readily invited aboard the buy-boats for first-hand tours, their captains proudly displaying for us fans of Bay Chesapeake maritime heritage their beautifully restored and maintained boats. Pictures really cannot do justice to the beauty and magnitude of these incredible boats. It was more than obvious that owning and maintaining one of these craft is a real sacrifice of time, labor and finances, and the owners that I met expressed without reservation their generous attitude of stewardship in preserving an increasingly rare example of Chesapeake Bay maritime know-how.
Friday of that special celebratory weekend brought our first full day of public visitation on these historic watercraft. Hundreds of new visitors to Town were attracted by this display and to tour some of the beautiful historic homes for sale in Cape Charles. That night the local band “Quadpod” entertained the crowd and plenty of good, homegrown food was prepared and served. The next day, Saturday, was anticipated by all as one of the highlights of our month long anniversary celebration with a parade through town by the Shriners and our county fire departments. Then that afternoon, we cruised down to the docks to watch the Smith Island Crab Skiffs Association race around a marked course in the outer harbor. Now that was some excitement to see these wooden skiffs, hand-built by their owners, no more than 13′ long and powered by 20 hp lawn mower engines, flying around the course and even capsizing in the water! Saturday evening brought a beautiful sunset over the horizon of the Chesapeake Bay and we were again entertained late into the night with a live band with everyone looking forward to the boat docking competition the following day. (Posted by Marlene Cree, licensed Virginia agent with Blue Heron Realty Co., 7134 Wilsonia Neck Dr., Machipongo, VA)
The citizens of the Eastern Shore of Virginia woke up the week-end of June 4-5, 2011 with not only the tall masts of Kalmar Nyckel dominating the skyline of the Cape Charles harbor but also with the tents of an authentic Elizabethan Faire set up in the Town’s beautiful and spacious Central Park. What a perfect setting for a historic reenactment camp right out of the sixteenth century! To celebrate and compliment the visit of Delaware’s official tall ship ambassador, Kalmar Nyckel, the historic coastal Town of Cape Charles hosted the visit of “Historic Interpretations” from Raleigh, North Carolina. They are a group of actors, historians, craftsmen, and educators who demonstrate in incredible detail what life was like 500 years ago in an Elizabethan village.
The day dawned bright and sunny with tangy, refreshing breezes blowing off the Chesapeake Bay. And as the day progressed, visitors from far and near made their way to the Faire and quickly found themselves involved in playing games, dancing, trying on armour, hefting weapons, and admiring the great detail of reproduction of the time period of 1585, or thereabouts, the height of Queen Elizabeth’s reign in England. I brought to the Faire my grown children and grandsons. When I visited the tent of Lord Robert Dudley, the High Chancellor of England, he was so impressed with my son and grandsons that he knighted them all! Now, I have to call them Sir John, Sir Brandon, Sir Charlie, and Sir Ryan, and do their bidding whenever it pleases them – big mistake!
My “Sir” Knights then lead me by the collar around the Park’s field to another tent that sheltered the Armoury. There, to my huge surprise, were racks of weapons from the 16th century – long bows and arrows, 10′ long pikes, and other implements you cannot imagine, all of which could do serious damage to an opponent on the battlefield or the jousting.
arena! Suited up for battle there stood a soldier straight out of antiquity! Helmet, breastplate, chain mail … I tapped on his chest and rapped on his head much to the detriment of my poor knuckles! That armour sure is good stuff! My little knight needed some shining armour, so I asked the good soldier in attendance to fix him up. And with Sir Brandon being now officially knighted and all, the soldier had no choice but do his bidding.
Then on to the Tavern tent, stocked with good victuals and brew, and furnished with collapsible wooden tables and chairs from the Elizabethan period. Gathered around the tables were the prettiest Ladies- in- Waiting, beckoning me to play a game of chess or checkers. It didn’t take long at all for Sir John, Sir Charlie, and Sir Brandon to get into the spirit of things and we all broke out in rollicking songs, timeless sea chanteys and Irish tavern tunes. Next thing I knew, the ladies had pulled us out of the Tavern and we were dancing on the Green, stepping lively around in a circle with our hands on our hips, twirling and swinging our partners here and there and everywhere!
Catching my breath finally, I broke free and followed my knights further around the Green for some refreshment and relaxation. What a wonderful opportunity to learn about the habits and dress and language of the Elizabethans at the time that Sir Walter Raleigh sent his ships across the Atlantic to establish the first English settlements in America, including the historic settlements on the Eastern Shore of Virginia, home to the oldest continuous court records in the US. I heard talk that this troupe loves Cape Charles so much that next year they plan on bringing Queen Elizabeth and her whole court ! Really looking forward to that !
The Kalmar Nyckel is a reproduction of a 17th century Dutch tall ship with three very tall masts and eight miles of rigging which make her a most impressive sight as she cuts through the water. Kalmar Nyckel’s total sail area is over 7000 sq.ft. — to get an idea of what really means, consider that the average US house is about 2200 sq.ft so she sports three houses worth of sails ! Wow ! At any rate, as an element of her visit to the Eastern Shore of Virginia and her 6 day stay in Cape Charles’ new marina, sponsored in part by Blue Heron Realty Co. , my husband and I as well as several other family members took a day sail from the Cape Charles harbour well out into the Chesapeake Bay, a real experience indeed and memorialized in this video. Passengers had an opportunity to see the crew climbing high up into the rigging and to experience for themselves the crew numbers and physical strength and effort it takes to operate such a ship as they participated in hoisting the sails, pulling to the rhythm of the seaman’s chantey, “Bully In The Alley” . An impromptu “Man Overboard” drill was ordered by Captain Lauren Morgens when a crew member’s big straw hat was blown overboard. So a “Hat Overboard” rescue was attempted with the aid of a little motorized Zodiak but it was clear to everyone that in the 1600’s when someone went overboard, rescue was pretty much hopeless because a ship under sail would be so far away from the critical area before a lifeboat could be manned and rowed to the spot. Our crew was great and everyone had time to answer questions. I think I peppered Helmswoman Ellen Carter with a million queries about daily life aboard such a ship for the crew of about 20, mostly volunteers, with a paid crew of 4. From cast-off to tie-up, everyone had a great time, learned a lot about trans-ocean travel 17th century style and stored some good memories.
As part of her 5 day stay in the Cape Charles harbor, the tall ship Kalmar Nyckel offered several opportunites for the public to board the ship for deck tours as well as four different day sail trips for up to 49 passengers per trip out into the Chesapeake Bay. We had selected the Sunday 10:30 am time slot for our sail but Sunday dawned dark andovercast, skies threatening a serious downpour at any time. The Eastern Shore definitely needs some rain so I didn’t feel but so bad but hoped it would clear up in time for the trip which included my husband, daughter, son-in-law and youngest granddaughter as well as myself. But when we arrived at the dock the crew informed everyone in line on the pier that the Captain was still monitoring the weather to decide if it would be a go or no-go. Fortunately it began to clear and the crew allowed us to board, everyone excited to sail on a ship which is a faithful reproduction of an early 1600’s Dutch pinnace. Boasting about 8 miles of rigging, three enormous masts and nearly 7,000 sq.ft. of sail, the Kalmar Nyckel is a most impressive ambassador of goodwill for the state of Delaware. It is near what is now Wilmington that her namesake first landed, on behalf of the Swedish Crown naming the area “New Sweden”, the first of four round trips she would make from Sweden to “New Sweden” before she was refitted as a warship in 1638.
It didn’t take long to get underway. Her big diesel engines fired up, ( no, they didn’t have engines in the 1600’s but hey, some things are too important to do without, even in a faithful reproduction), many orders issued from the bridge to the crew, mooring lines were cast off and away we went for our 2 1/2 hour adventure. As we left the Cape Charles harbor, 5 or 6 yachts leaving the Bay Creek Marina waved as they passed, surprised I’m sure to see this ornate beauty in their home waters. As the ship got further out into the Bay the winds started picking up and the crew made ready to hoist the sails, enlisting the help of passenger volunteers to do so. First came the instructions, terms like “avast”, “ease” and “haul” were demonstrated and practiced. Then it was time to hoist the topsails, the main top and the fore top, and this was done just as in the days of yore, pulling to the rhythm of an old sea chantey, in this case a tune called “Bully On The Deck” which has a rather captivating beat. ( I found out later that the term “bully” in sailor parlance means inebriated. ) The winds were with us and the sails filled nicely, speeding us along.
It was the wind, blowing pretty well by then, which initiated an inpromptu little training drill much to the surprise of both the crew andpassengers. I was on the upper deck, standing just behind the Captain, taking some photos when a gust swept a wide-brimmed straw hat right off a crew member’s head and sailed it smack into the water. When the Captain saw that she decided right then and there to conduct an unscheduled “man overboard” drill. In a matter of seconds alarms sounded, crew moved into various positions, on the upper deck “spotters'” grabbed binoculars and trained them on the hat, job one being to keep the “man” in sight at all times, especially difficult to do as the ship begins its turn back towards the overboard area. On the lower deck, crew threw out life preservers which in the event of a real problem are an effort to send a number of flotation devices out towards the victim in hopes that one will be grabbed. All passengers on the lower deck were asked to move towards the bow. The rubber Zodiak , which is secured to the stern, was lowered into the water, engine started and the 2nd mate and another crew member set out for the rescue. Meantime, designated crew members were busy counting passengers, counting crew and talleying numbers to make sure everyone was accounted for, that only one “man” had gone overboard. All of this was done quickly and efficiently, the Captain issuing rapid orders, crew quickly carrying them out. Unfortunately, the hat drowned. But the drill came off very well, the Captain being quite pleased with the opportunity to carry off a surprise drill and the passengers excited to participate and see how well it all worked. The Zodiak was resecured at the stern and the journey continued on.
On the homeward leg I had the opportunity to talk a bit to Ellen Carter who is in her fourth season of volunteering on the Kalmar Nyckel. She was at the helm, steering a course back to the Cape Charles harbor, keeping one eye on the whipstaff, another on the modern electronic depthfinder and course charter, ears perked for the Captain to issue orders but still able to tell me a bit about the ship and life on-board. The helm on the Kalmar Nyckelis not the big round wheel that one traditionally thinks of– rather, it is a 6-7 ft. long pole, about 4-5 inches in diameter, called a “whipstaff”. Connecting through a yoke into the tiller, which in turn moves the ship’s rudder, it’s called a whipstaff because a sudden, unexpected movement of the rudder will cause it to whip to one side or the other with great momentum– definitely don’t want to daydream on helms watch ! Ellen told me that the rudder weighes about 3200 pounds but that even though a lot of force may be needed to push the whipstaff in one direction or another, because of its length, the helmsperson has about 40 to 1 mechanical leverage. Otherwise it would take Godzilla to steer the ship ! And to think that they had all of that all figured out in the early 1600’s !
I was interested in the day-to-day aspects of life on board. Ellen indicated that topside Kalmar Nyckel is a faithful reproduction of her namesake but that below decks the crew has pretty comfortable modern quarters. The Captain, 1st and 2nd Mates and Steward are paid crew, on board for about 8 months of the year and have their own quarters. 10 bunks off the galley and 10 more off the saloon provide spaces for the rest of the approximately 12-20 person crew ( depending on the venue) which is all- volunteer. According to Ellen the food is very good and the cook tries to cater to special diets-i.e., vegan, Kosher, etc., plus there is plenty of good strong coffee and even bundt cake for dessert sometimes. The days of hard tack with a dram of rum are apparently long gone ! Too, too soon we were dousing the sails and heading into the channel, the journey was about over but the memories will linger on.
(Posted by Marlene Cree, licensed Virginia agent with Blue Heron Realty Co., 7134 Wilsonia Neck Dr., Machipongo, VA)